Wednesday, January 30, 2008

Sala Tram


One particulary endearing characteristic of people in Alicante who work in "security" or in information kiosks is that in a foggy confusion much like the legendary Don Quixote experienced, they think that they actually work for the Guardia Civil, the para-military organization that tried to drag Spain back to a military dictatorship after Franco handed the reigns to the formerly overthrown royal family upon his death. Imagine that! A typical conversation goes as follows:

Location: entryway to (fill in the blank) below

Me: Hello, good day.

Me: Say, can you tell me when (fill in the blank) is scheduled to open?

Helpful Information Worker Who Thinks He Works For GC: No

Me: Do you mind if I take some pictures?

HIWWTHWFGC: It is prohibited.

Me: What is the intended purpose for this place?

HIWWTHWFGC: It is prohibited.

Me: Do you have any brochures that perhaps have more information?

HIWWTHWFGC: No.

What I'll ask next time: Do the kiosk workers here have any intelligence whatsoever?

HIWWTHWFGC: No, it is prohibited.

And so it goes. Anyway, among other things, this is in reference to the auditorium that I've read is planned for the Mercado Central tram stop. Right behind the entry booth, there is a wall with a sign that says "SALA TRAM," and there's a door where employees or workers enter. I imagine it will be the auditorium that I've read about that will feature local artists, and will try to take a picture for this site, and then run away as fast as I can.

I recently travelled to the IKEA in Murcia, the next city down to the south. I took a lift from the car park, up to the main entry level, the only stop. An information booth employee informed me that I would be unable to bring the shopping cart through the entry to the store. Upon exiting with half the goods I had intended to buy, I went to the same lift where a security guard told me that it was prohibited - this lift, according to him, only went up. And this, even though I saw some people get in right before me. So, two apparent contradictions hit me. One was that there was no floor above to select in the lift, otherwise I would have skipped the middle floor in the first place, and the second was that if the elevators only went up, there would need to be an endless supply of lifts and from the outside of the store you would see them lifting off into space, because as I was informed, they do not go down - only up.

What I'm coming to find out is that in predominantly Catholic countries, such as Spain, and especially ones where there are monarchs or dictators, the citizens are meant to suffer like Jesus to get even the smallest acknowledgement, empathy, or favour. If you haven't been nailed to the cross, you're not getting anywhere here with anyone who works in an information booth or has on a uniform, no matter how cheap a copy it is of those worn by the Guardia Civil. I will soon start handing out Mickey Mouse hat awards to those who think they work for the GC, and at least then their hats will match as much as their uniforms.

Sunday, December 23, 2007

Paintings Moved to New Blog

I have decided to strike the paintings that were recently posted to this blog and move them to a new home at http://ekugler.blogspot.com, in order to keep this blog focused on Alicante and life in the Mediterranean. I think the less said explicitly about paintings, the greater the potential for meaning, so maybe it's better that I don't associate the rantings of an obvious madman with my works. There is a new link on the right side of this page in the links as well. Thank you everyone for your support and encouragement.

Thursday, December 20, 2007

Café Rico


No comment, the painting says it all.

Saturday, December 15, 2007

MACA - Is 2008 the Year?


Big things are happening in the arts world in humble little Alicante, Spain. Right now, Roman Polanski is filming his latest film about Pompeia, perhaps the most expensive film ever, in Alicante's Ciudad de la Luz, an ultra modern filming studio situated at the intersection of route 322 and the turn-off to the beaches of Urbanova, just outside of town on the way to the airport. Recently Alicante has been getting visitors from Hollywood, including recently some chick who's on a popular housewives' series over there, so it looks like the word is getting out.

But the birth of the film industry is not all that's new in Alicante. In fact, some say that all that is new is just something old recycled. Back in the 1930s and 1940s, Edith Piaf, the French starlet, used to go slumming in Alicante and there is a bar that celebrates her escapades near the plaza Gabriel Miro, much to the chagrin of the bar owner's wife. In addition, jazz greats have been spotted about town and Alicante hosts a top notch jazz festival each summer. In this regard, work has started on the Municipal Auditorium, which is going to transform an ugly parking lot in Campoamor into an arts destination with a Garcia Solera "modern retro" structure designed in the late 1980s. Calatrava would be out of place in Alicante anyway. Sorry about the previous post, Sr. Garcia Solera, as I've come around now, but the offer to knock back a martini and talk about old times remains valid.

But back to the theme of all that's new is something old recycled, the Pozo de Garrigos and Ceramic Museum have reopened their doors after having been closed for reformation for a number of years. The Pozos and Ceramic Museum are located together at the base of Parque Ereta, on the southern side of the castle Santa Barbara.

And just a block away is a huge construction project for the MACA, the Museo de Arte Contemporario de Alicante. The plans are impressive, see below:



This museum of contemporary art will house works by the venerated Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dali, Max Ernst, Juan Gris, and Joan Miro, among others of the Spanish vanguard. And by the looks of it, the museum will be complete in 2008. Ojala, because it's going to be spectacular!

All of which, in combination with the metro expansion and AVE (high velocity train), will make Alicantinos proud of the 'little city that could.' Here's to a great 2008 - everyone please enjoy your 12 grapes and cava this noche vieja, and have a happy new year!

Saturday, February 10, 2007

El Altet Airport Doubling in Size - Direct Flight Destination List

One of the reasons I chose Alicante as my home was that it had an international airport. Now it's growing, and officials say they will try to attract more direct flights with a focus on northern Europe. Although I'd like to see more flights to around the Mediterranean as well, like to Athens, Rome, Beirut or Cairo for example, I say god dag (good day) to Scandinavia as well.

In July and August, temperatures become tepid in Alicante as a result of the weather pattern of dry winds that come from the Sahara, known as Levante. At the same time, Mediterranean residents and Northern Europeans swap environs, the northerners sun-starved and the southerners sun-baked. The month to six weeks of standard European vacation leave fuels this exchange, and let me tell you - Scandinavia, at least, is absolutely beautiful in the summer and I'm sure that nothern continental Europe is as well after all the rain they recieved up to that point in the year!

It is sunny, people are in a good mood and smile more frequently, and the nature is remarkably clean and fresh. Then the busload of middle-aged Spanish tourists pulls up, the people scramble out and they all light up cigarettes while marveling in the cleanliness and orderliness of their destination, debating the merits of rules versus no rules and the overly complex politics of the bus ride. Or so I imagine.

Back in Alicante at the El Altet airport, hoards of pale tourists are arriving and congregating with their cigarettes outside the airport. Finally, cheap cigarettes and cheap booze for all, and the sun to boot! It's party time, and no rules apply. Well, the only rule that really applies is that the city shuts down because the Spanish are up north, and only the businesses that sell to tourists are open, namely the tobacconists, liquor stores, the shopping malls and the "hiper mercados" or gigantic grocery stores.

It's funny, an outdoor market is called a mercadillo, like a little market, a mercado, or market, decribes a central place where people go as much to socialize as to collect an abundant selection of food for the next few days. A super, is a supermarket or grocery store, and then a hiper, literally hyper, describes the dubious benefit of having one store that sells a selection of many things but nothing fresh like at the smaller markets. But that's fine for the northerners - that's what they came for, the beach, the sun, the booze, and the food - and the food at the hipers is still fresher than that of the north where much that is available is imported. And one euro bottles of local wine? Sure!

So along with the airport expansion, we will see more barbaric northern europeans, but along with them we as Alicantinos get a better selection of direct flights. The latest is Pisa, Italy. I can't wait to see as more destinations and frequencies are added. The following is a partial list of existing nonstop destinations from El Altet by country then airport:

Airport Code/City or Airport/Country/Carrier

Algeria
ORN/Oran - Es Senia/Algeria/Air Algerie

Austria
LNZ/Linz/Austria/Air Berlin
SZG/Salzburg/Austria/Air Berlin
VIE/Vienna/Austria/Air Berlin

Denmark
CPH/Copenhagen/Denmark/Air Berlin

England
BHX/Birmingham/England/Thomson
BLK/Blackpool/England/Thomson
BOH/Bournemouth/England/Thomson
BRS/Bristol/England/EasyJet
CWL/Cardiff/England/Thomson
CVT/Coventry/England/Thomson
DSA/Doncaster - Sheffield/England/Thomson
MME/Durham Tees Valley/England/Thomson
EMA/East Midlands/England/EasyJet,Thomson
HUY/Humberside/England/Thomson
LBA/Leeds Bradford/England/Thomson
LPL/Liverpool - John Lennon/England/Thomson, EasyJet,Ryan Air
LGW/London - Gatwick/England/Thomson, EasyJet
LTN/London - Luton/England/Thomson
STN/London - Stansted/England/Air Berlin, Ryan Air, EasyJet
MAN/Manchester/England/Thomson
NCL/Newcastle/England/EasyJet, Thomson

Finland
HEL/Helsinki/Finland/Air Finland

France
ORY/Paris/France/Air Europa

Germany
SXF/Berlin - Schönefeld/Germany/Air Berlin
TXL/Berlin - Tegel/Germany/Air Berlin
BRE/Bremen/Germany/Air Berlin
CGN/Cologne, Bonn/Germany/Air Berlin
DTM/Dortmund/Germany/EasyJet, Air Berlin
DRS/Dresden/Germany/Air Berlin
NRN/Dusseldorf/Germany/Ryan Air, Air Berlin
ERF/Etfurt/Germany/Air Berlin
FRA/Frankfurt/Germany/Air Berlin
HAM/Hamburg/Germany/Air Berlin
HAJ/Hanover/Germany/Air Berlin
LEJ/Leipzig, Halle/Germany/Air Berlin
MUC/Munich/Germany/Air Berlin
FMO/Münster Osnabrück/Germany/Air Berlin
NRW/North Rhine Westfalia/Germany/Air Berlin
NUE/Nuremberg/Germany/Air Berlin
PAD/Paderborn Lippstadt/Germany/Air Berlin
RLG/Rostock Laage/Germany/Air Berlin
STR/Stuttgart/Germany/Air Berlin

Holland
AMS/Amsterdam/Holland/Air Berlin, Transavia
EIN/Eindhoven/Holland/Transavia
RTM/Rotterdam/Holland/Transavia

Northern Ireland
BFS/Belfast/Northern Ireland/EasyJet

Ireland
DUB/Dublin/Ireland/Ryan Air

Italy
BGY/Milan - Bergamo/Italy/Air Berlin
PSA/Pisa/Italy/Ryan Air

Norway
BGO/Bergen/Norway/Norwegian, SAS, all Saturdays, 2 July - 10 Aug Mondays & Fridays
KRS/Kristiansand/Norway/SAS, Saturdays only
OSL/Oslo/Norway/Norwegian, SAS
SVG/Stavanger/Norway/Norwegian, SAS, all Sundays and 4 July - 8 Aug Wednesdays
TRD/Trondheim/Norway/Norwegian, 2 July - 10 Aug, Mondays and Fridays

Poland
WAW/Warsaw/Poland/Norwegian, Thursdays and Saturdays

Portugal
FAO/Faro/Portugal/Air Berlin
LIS/Lisbon/Portugal/Air Berlin
OPO/Oporto/Portugal/Air Berlin

Scotland
EDI/Edinburgh/Scotland/EasyJet
GLA/Glasgow/Scotland/EasyJet, Thomson

Spain
BCN/Barcelona/Spain/SAS, Iberia, Spanair
BIO/Bilbao/Spain/Air Berlin, Iberia
IBZ/Ibiza/Spain/Air Berlin
MAD/Madrid/Spain/SAS, Iberia, Spanair
MAH/Menorca - Mahon/Spain/Air Berlin
AGP/Malaga/Spain/Iberia
OVD/Asturias - Oviedo/Spain/Iberia
PMI/Palma de Mallorca/Spain/Air Berlin, Air Europa
SDR/Santander/Spain/Iberia
SCQ/Santiago de Compostela/Spain/Air Berlin
SVQ/Seville/Spain/Air Berlin, Iberia

Switzerland
BSL/Basel Mulhouse/Switzerland/EasyJet
GVA/Geneva/Switzerland/EasyJet
ZRH/Zurich/Switzerland/Air Berlin

As I find more connections and airlines I will update the list. For more information on Alicante's El Altet airport, click here: http://www.alicante-spain.com/alicante_airport.html

Saturday, June 24, 2006

July 4th for 2 Weeks Straight - Las Hogueras de Sant Joan



I've come to discover that you can't understand nor appreciate Alicante without living through the biggest party of the year, Las Hogueras, which has been put on annually since 1928. Last night, marching bands were playing through the streets of the city until 5 in the morning. Well, marching bands accompanied by fireworks. A friend called it July 4th mixed with Mardi Gras and Burning Man, and that is an understatement. This is not something put on for tourists like the Mickey Mouse parade in the Disney park of your choice; there is no theme park element to it at all.

I'm still new to this, and the language is a barrier, but here is my understanding. Each neighborhood of the city has a party committee. Through the year, they raise funds through local businesses. A giant sculpture, featuring ironic and/or politically sensitive subject matter, is designed and built, and placed in a central area of the neighborhood, and half of the streets are closed to auto traffic. On the last night of the party, they will all be simultaneously burned in 30 feet of flames, all over the city.


About a month before the party, a Bellesa del Foc, or beauty of the fire, in traditional dress, is selected for each of the 88 neighborhoods. A marching band is formed, and participants with traditional costumes are organized. Every night, the band plays and the marchers march with the Belleza to the Plaza de Luceros, in the southern part of the city, and then they form in a giant parade to the Ayuntamiento, the main government building, and because there are so many neighborhoods in the city, the parade goes from 8'30 pm until past 2'00 am. At the ayuntamiento, flowers are attached to the building to form a sort of mosaic made of flowers. Every night the neighborhood band and marchers, followed by a loosely organized committee of firecracker throwers, go down a different street in the neighborhood until they've been through every street, and in the end, every street in the city will have seen at least one procession, so if people are too old or young to leave their apartment they can still see a parade.

Also in the neighborhoods, streets are closed off and huge kitchens are set up to feed and 'water' the marchers, the band, and the Bellesa del Foc. These are called barracas. Some are open to the public, some not. Most feature massive PA systems, a stage, and live music.

During this time there are daily bullfights, with the attendees joining the throngs of people on the streets afterwards.

Meanwhile, for two weeks straight, there are constant shows of fireworks that the city puts on. They don't even wait until night, although they go off all night long too. There is no central fireworks location; it's everywhere. The explosions can be heard all over the city, and smoke fills the air. Individuals take to the streets and set off more explosions. The Spanish love noise, and in this coastal and former fortress city, aerial explosions are very much part of the history. So the explosions and smoke are more or less a constant backdrop.

During the last week, people go down to the beach for some kind of celebration where they wade in the water at night. The last two nights, there are fireworks shows on the beach. During the last few days, the frequency of parades and fireworks increases until finally everyone is worn out.

Because of the closed streets, the busses change their routes. Most stores are closed for a greater percentage of the day than they already are. But that's okay, considering the intensity of the party and the community involvement. Everyone is involved. The young in strollers and the old, the mothers, fathers and children, the disabled, the rich and the poor, the beautiful and the ugly, the participants and the spectators, the government and the anarchists, everyone. It creates bonds that integrate the community and prevent it from sliding into every man for himself styled society.

Monday, June 05, 2006

Dia de Alicantinos de Adopcion



What a cool thing. Alicante had a party for its immigrants, which Alicantinos call adoptees. And with any party here there is music, paella and beer. This paella was enormous - the pan had to have a 15 ft. diameter. There were also booths featuring areas from around Spain, introducing the immigrants to Spain's cultural diversity. As an adoptee, I had a great time and felt welcome.



What struck me was the difference in the ways immigrants are treated around the world. In my native country, the government is sending troops to the borders to keep immigrants out, when they do get in they live in appalling conditions and are harassed, and they face discrimination and prejudice on a daily basis. Here, they may have a tough time too, but at least someone thought to give them a welcome and introduce them to aspects of Spanish culture.

The world would do well to follow this small example of hospitality toward fellow human beings and strangers from different cultural backgrounds. Imagine what we could learn from eachother.